Thrips on indoor plants are one of the easiest pests to miss at first — until leaves look silvery, new growth twists, and tiny black specks start showing up on the undersides. The good news: you can usually get on top of them with a simple routine and a bit of repetition.

Quick answer: thrips on indoor plants

• Isolate the plant straight away (thrips spread quickly).

• Rinse and wipe leaves, especially undersides.

• Use sticky traps to catch adults and track progress.

• Treat with insecticidal soap (or similar) and repeat every 5–7 days for 3–4 rounds.

• Check nearby plants weekly for 2–3 weeks after “it looks gone”.

Do this first: Take the plant to the sink/shower and rinse the leaves thoroughly — especially the undersides — before you do anything else.

A quick weekly leaf wipe helps you catch pests before they spread — How to Clean Houseplant Leaves shows the simplest way to do it.

What thrips look like on indoor plants

Thrips are tiny, narrow insects that can look like moving “dust” or little grains of rice. You’ll often notice the damage before you see the pest.

Typical signs of thrips:

• Silvery streaks or pale patches on leaves

• Tiny black dots (thrips droppings)

• Distorted new growth (twisting, curling, stunted tips)

• Dry, papery leaf texture in damaged areas

• Small insects that run when you disturb the leaf

Quick check that works: hold a leaf over white paper and tap it. If tiny specks fall and move, thrips are likely.

Why thrips are hard to get rid of in one go

Thrips are annoying for three reasons:

• they hide in tight new growth and along veins,

• they can be stubborn against weak sprays, and

• you often miss a few — which is why repeat treatments matter.

They also tend to bounce between plants easily, so treating only the “worst one” often doesn’t fully solve it.

Step-by-step: how to get rid of thrips on indoor plants

1) Isolate and reduce the population first

Move the plant away from others (even a metre or two helps).

Then do a quick clean:

• rinse leaves with lukewarm water

• wipe both sides of leaves with a damp cloth

• trim off the worst-damaged leaves if practical

This is where leaf cleaning really pays off, because it removes a chunk of pests immediately and makes treatment reach the plant better.

2) Treat the leaves properly (undersides matter most)

Thrips often feed on the undersides and inside folds of new growth.

A plant-safe option is an insecticidal soap concentrate for houseplants, used exactly as directed and tested on a small area first.

Best practice: spray until leaves are evenly coated (especially undersides), then keep the plant out of strong sun until dry.

It’s tempting to mix “extra strong” for faster results, but following the label is the safest route — the US Environmental Protection Agency guidance on pesticide labels explains that the label directions are the practical instructions for safe use.

3) Repeat on a schedule (this is the make-or-break step)

Thrips control is rarely one-and-done. A simple rhythm that works for most homes:

• Treat on day 1

• Repeat every 5–7 days

• Do 3–4 rounds total

If you stop at the first improvement, the missed ones usually rebound.

Sticky traps: the easiest way to track whether you’re winning

Sticky traps won’t solve thrips alone, but they do two useful things:

• catch flying adults

• show you whether numbers are going down week by week

A pack of yellow sticky traps for indoor plants is a simple add-on because it reduces adults while you’re doing the repeat treatment routine.

Where to place them: near the plant, slightly above pot level (not pressed into the soil if you can avoid it).

Treating thrips without stressing the plant

Thrips damage is stressful, but so is over-treating. Keep it simple and consistent.

Good “safe mode” habits:

• avoid spraying in hot sun

• avoid mixing multiple treatments at once

• keep airflow decent so leaves dry

• don’t feed heavily while the plant is stressed

If the plant starts looking blotchy after treating, pause and focus on gentle recovery — steady light, careful watering, and clean leaves. If you see webbing or dusty speckling instead of streaking, Spider Mites on Houseplants is worth checking because the treatment approach can differ.

Long-tail quick fixes people search for

Thrips keep coming back — what am I doing wrong?

Most often it’s one of these:

• treatments aren’t being repeated (or the gap is too long)

• undersides/new growth aren’t being coated

• nearby plants weren’t checked

• the plant stayed in the same crowded spot and thrips moved back in

Do thrips live in the soil?

Some stages can drop down and pupate near the potting mix. That’s why sticky traps + repeat leaf treatments work well together — you’re reducing adults while interrupting the cycle.

Can neem help with thrips?

It can help as part of a routine, especially as a follow-up, but it’s not always the quickest fix on its own. For a simple, indoor-safe approach, Neem Oil for Indoor Plants breaks down how to use it without overdoing it.

When should you give up and bin the plant?

If the plant is heavily infested, very fragile, or you keep seeing thrips in multiple rooms, it can be reasonable to discard the worst plant to protect the rest — especially if it’s replaceable.

FAQs About Thrips on Indoor Plants

What causes thrips on indoor plants?

They usually arrive on new plants, cut flowers, or open windows in warmer months. Once inside, they spread easily between plants.

Can thrips spread to other houseplants?

Yes — they move quickly, and adults can fly short distances. Isolating the plant early makes a big difference.

How long does it take to get rid of thrips?

Often 2–4 weeks of consistent treatment. You’ll usually see improvement in the first week, but repeat treatments are what stop the comeback.

Are thrips dangerous to people or pets?

They’re primarily plant pests. The main safety consideration is using treatments correctly and following product directions.

Final Thoughts on Thrips on Indoor Plants

Thrips are annoying, but they’re not unbeatable. The biggest difference-maker is doing the boring basics well: clean the plant, treat the undersides properly, and repeat on a schedule even when it starts looking better. Add sticky traps to track progress, check nearby plants, and you’ll usually stop the cycle within a few weeks.

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